We get lots of questions on how to assemble the models we sell. This page is an attempt to answer the most common types that we receive.

How do I assemble a vinyl kit?

1. First and most importantly, read all of the instructions thoroughly before you start cutting or glueing anything. Lay all the parts out on a clean flat surface and make sure all the parts are there. Compare any drawings or photos to what you are building. Link & Pin Hobbies unfortunately does not have any extra parts available but we will make sure that you can obtain any missing or miscast parts directly from the manufacturer.

2. Decide whether you need to paint the parts before or after assembly. Painting details is often easier before assembly. Also decide if the model should be constructed in several groups of parts (called sub-assemblies). The instruction sheets (if any) should give you this information.

3. Vinyl kits typically have large areas of excess material. Closely inspect these areas that surround the model joints. Vinyl models can be dry assembled by inserting these excess areas into the matching part to check the fit. Cut away any excess using a craft knife. (Note: never cut towards yourself and cut on a firm work surface or Cutting Mat). Trim a little at a time until you get a close fit. If the vinyl doesn't cut easily, you can soften it by using a hairdryer or by submerging the parts in hot water. Be careful not to deform the model parts!

4. Glue together the sub-assemblies using ACC (Super Glue). You may have to heat the edge of the parts with the excess material so you can snap it into the matching part.

5. Using model putty (we recommend Wonder Putty or Squadron), fill the seams between the fitted parts (unless you wish that joint to remain movable). Then fill any air bubbles left from the casting process. After the putty has set, remove any excess with a modelers file. Using fine grit sandpaper, work to a really smooth finish. Start with 220 grit and work gradually down to 600 grit. Wash and dry your assembled model prior to painting to remove oils from the casting process and your fingers.

6. Painting models is an artform unto itself. Most models recommend that you use a primer before adding you color coat. Refer to the box art or photos for coloring suggestions. Vinyl models should be painted using water- based acrylic paints.

7. This is meant only as a primer for beginning modelers. Your skill level will increase with each model you complete so don't be afraid, just start one!

How do I assemble a Resin kit?

1. First and most importantly, read all of the instructions thoroughly before you start cutting or glueing anything. Lay all the part out on a clean flat surface and make sure all the parts are there. Compare any drawings or photos to what you are building. Link & Pin Hobbies unfortunately does not have any extra parts available but we will make sure that you can obtain any missing or miscast parts directly from the manufacturer.

2. Clean the parts thoroughly with a mild soap and water. The casting process leaves residue that can make glues and paints not adhere properly. Use a sponge or soft brush. Be careful not to break off any detail parts.

3. Remove any injection flash. Check the instructions again first to be sure that it is actually flash and not part of the kit. Use your files and sandpaper to carefully remove the excess.

4. Resin models tend to be very heavy. It is a good idea to pin the parts together using some type of wire or a steel sewing pin (cut the head off with a wire-cutter). Make a small hole in the two matching parts. Epoxy or Super-Glue the pin in one part and let it set up. The hole in the matching part should be wider in diameter to give you a little movement to perfectly match the two parts. Add glue to the matching surfaces and to the pin hole. Match the parts and set aside to let the glue set up. It is a good idea to restrain the parts with a rubber band to keep them in alignment while the glue dries.

5. Using model putty (we recommend Wonder Putty or Squadron), fill the seams between the fitted parts. Then fill any air bubbles left from the casting process. After the putty has set, remove any excess with a modelers file. Using fine grit sandpaper, work to a really smooth finish. Start with 220 grit and work gradually down to 600 grit. Wash and dry your assembled model prior to painting to remove oils from your fingers.

6. Painting models is an artform unto itself. Most models recommend that you use a primer before adding you color coat. Refer to the box art or photos for coloring suggestions. Resin models can be painted using water- based acrylic paints, lacquer or enamel paints. Be sure to test the paint on a scrap or hidden surface to be sure that the paint will not react with the model composition.

7. Decide if you need a base. As resin models are heavy and somewhat delicate, you may wish to create a diorama base to protect and display the model. We have some scenery materials available on our Dinosaur Models page listed under Diorama Helpers.

What tools do I need?

Assembling a tool box is a very individual undertaking. Some tools that modelers swear by may be of no use to you but the following is a listing of some of the basic items you will need to assemble a model. Link & Pin Hobbies will be glad to pick out a set of basic tools for you, just let us know your interests and budget.

Craft Knives: Usually a handle with interchangable blades. Also scapels and retractable blade models are available. Get one fine handle and one with a heavier handle. Many companies make these with all kinds of plastic, metal or rubber handles. Pick some that feel comfortable in your hand.

Glues: Different types for different kit materials. Buy some ACC "super-glue"--both thin, fast setting and thick, gap filling types. Never apply directly to the parts: place glue on a scrap surface and use an applicator to transfer the glue to the part. For working with wood parts--nothing beats good old white glue like Elmers. For plastic kits--buy some Tenax-7. The applicator kit works real well! For resin models an epoxy might be necessary.

Model Putty: Used for filling in seams or bubbles in your model. Try Wonder Putty (a 2 part mix) or Squadron White (in a tube).

Craft Nippers: These run the spectrum from simple scissors to specialty flush cut nippers. Get a few types that are well made and they should last a long time. Start with a sprue nipper and a fine pair of scissors.

Tweezers: Great for picking up and holding small parts. Necessary for placing decals exactly where you want them. Get at least one pair of extra fine needle pointed tweezers.

Paint brushes: Get a varied selection. Purchase some inexpensive brushes for broad coverage and for applying washes. These are also good for setting decals. Don't skimp on good brushes for detail work or your finish will suffer.

Air Brush: Better tools usually result in better finishes. Learn to use one!

Paints: Type of paint will be determined by the model composition. A good starting point would be a selection of quality water based acrylic paints. Don't forget to get a compatable primer! Be sure to try the paint on a scrap or hidden surface of the model to assure that the paint won't react with the material.

Sandpaper: Purchase a selection a papers from 220 to 600 grit. Also get some cheap hardware store coarse grit for taking down large lumps of casting flash but be careful not to mar the model finish.

Hobby Files: Get a set of good files. These can be worked in tighter areas than sandpaper and will be easier to work around cast surface details.

Misc: Hairdryer for heating vinyl models.
Cutting mat to protect your work surface.
Toothpicks make a great disposable glue applicator.
Black Wash to highlight detail. (See below).

We have many of these tools available on our Tools Page.

What is Black Wash?

Black Wash is a mixture of India Ink and Alcohol. Take a teaspoon of India Ink and add it to 16 ounces of Isopropyl Rubbing Alcohol (the cheap drug store kind). This is not a critical measurement but remember that less is better. It is easier to add more color than to remove some after it is applied.

Why use Black Wash?

Black wash is great for bringing out the details on a model. Simply spread a wash (get it?) over the areas you want highlighted using the inexpensive brushes mentioned above. The alcohol, being thin, runs into the cracks and lines of the surface detail and then evaporates leaving the black India Ink in the detail. If you have any excess on the surface, wipe it off with a damp rag.
Small parts can be dunked into the wash then placed on a paper towel to dry. The towel will wick off the excess wash. If you are working with real wood parts, you can give them a weathered, unpainted look by painting the wood with the wash, then buffing the surface with a paper towel. The wood will get a gray weathered sheen. Be careful to avoid the cut ends as they will absorb the wash and get very dark. Also this works best after the wood has been glued in place as stripwood will curl when covered with the wash.

Can I straighten mis-cast parts?

Vinyl and plastic kits sometimes arrive from the manufacturer with parts that have either warped or the registration between the parts is slightly off. What can you do to correct these problems? If you receive a kit where the parts have warped slightly (example: a figure where the feet don't rest properly on the ground) you can try heating the parts in hot water. When the parts begin to soften from the heat, gently bend the parts back to shape. Remember not to burn yourself in the hot water. Wear rubber gloves if you have a low tolerance. Do not boil the water--that is much too hot! This technique does not work on all grades of plastic or all thicknesses of vinyl.
Occasionally the parts in inexpensive injection molded kits are off-register. This means that the details on two adjacent parts don't match up exactly. This is one of the pit-falls of the molding process and it is likely that all the kits in a run have the same problem. Can this be fixed? Yes, but will require a little kit surgery. If the parts have mounting pins, it may be necessary to remove them and glue the parts back in proper alignment. A little putty work and you are back in business. If the alignment is too far off to fix, please contact the manufacturer. They usually will replace any defective parts for you. Please don't return the kit to the hobby store as they have no extra parts and usually will not accept returns on opened kits.
Please note that cleaning a little casting flash is part of the kit building experience and should not be considered a defect.

Got any tips to share? Email us a short paragraph and we might include it.